WE WENT BACK TO HOKKAIDO
Every time someone asks me why we keep returning to the same place instead of trying somewhere new, my answer is always the same. First, the snow quality and consistency are unlike anywhere else in the world. Second, it is not an expedition. You can rent a van, drive around, and access incredible terrain without needing a huge logistical setup. And last, but definitely not least, you are in Japan, and that means amazing food, amazing culture, and an experience that goes far beyond skiing. Ramen, sushi, tonkatsu, even food from 7-Eleven… everything is just good.
We are not snow experts, so we are not the kind of people who can go to Alaska, Russia, or Kazakhstan and explore by ourselves. Hokkaido feels like the perfect balance for us. It is wild enough to feel special, but accessible enough to make it realistic. Yes, it takes us about 24 hours to get there from home, and yes, it means long drives almost every day in search of the best snow. But for us, it is absolutely worth it.
This year we followed almost the exact same plan as last year: one week in the center of the island near Asahikawa, one week in Niseko, and three days in Tokyo to finish the trip. The first week was all about touring and searching for the best spots, finding amazing powder and often having the mountains almost to ourselves. The second week was based around Niseko, the world famous ski area. By then, our legs were already tired, so we did more resort skiing than in the first week.
To finish the trip, just like last year, we spent three days in Tokyo eating, shopping for presents to bring home, slowing down after twelve nonstop days of skiing, and having one final party day before coming back to reality. For me, this trip also marks the end of the ski season, because after that the bike season starts and everything changes: events, races, trips, and a completely different rhythm.
From left to right: Edu, Aleix, Gerard, Andreu, Raul, Me, Miguel, Eloi, Javi, Jep
ASAHIKAWA
The first part was around Asahikawa. We skied in Asahidake, an active volcano, and spent most of the week touring. There are not many resorts in that area, and most of them are small, apart from Furano, which is much bigger and where we spent the first day. After that, the rest of the week was about touring and chasing the best powder we could find. The area feels very rural, which meant a lot of driving every day. At least in the beginning, that did not feel like a problem. We stayed in a hotel with its own onsen, and going there every day after skiing made everything better.
Even Asahikawa itself has a special feeling. It is a city, but at the same time it feels more like a big town. There are some bigger buildings, but overall everything is calm and quiet. We went to a different restaurant almost every day: ramen, sushi, oyakodon, izakaya, unadon… all the pleasures of Japanese cuisine. That first week was incredibly cold. Some days we were skiing in temperatures around -17°C, but the snow was unbelievable. It was the deepest and lightest powder we had ever skied.
NISEKO
The second week was completely different in almost every way except for the food, which was still amazing. Niseko is busier, more comfortable, and much easier in terms of logistics. Everything is closer, but you also feel much more like a tourist. That week did not bring huge snowfall, even though it snowed every day and some mornings we woke up to 15 to 30 cm of fresh snow. It was not an all time week, but we still skied a lot. We spent more time in the resort, and Niseko Anupuri was our place. It is not huge, but we know where to go and how to squeeze the most out of it.
The weather there was also kind of crazy. In one single day we could have everything: waking up to blue skies, then clouds rolling in, then snowfall, then freezing wind at the top of the resort, and later milder temperatures again. But that is part of the fun too. We spent the days doing laps, enjoying the snow we had, and finishing with tonkatsu or ramen after coming back home.
TOKYO
The last three days in Tokyo felt like a slow transition back to real life. Going from the remote and quiet area around Asahikawa to Tokyo before flying home is a way of coming back gradually. Tokyo is hectic, of course, but it can also feel surprisingly quiet in the residential neighborhoods. We spent those days shopping, taking advantage of the exchange rate between the yen and the euro, eating our last Japanese meals, and enjoying a little bit of nightlife to close the trip properly.
I like to think of those last days as a celebration. The trip was so much fun and we enjoyed almost every minute of it. Maybe not the 6 a.m. wake ups, but almost everything else. There were a few crashes, but no serious injuries. We broke some gear, but nothing that stopped us from skiing. We drove hundreds of kilometers on snowy roads without having a car accident. So yes, there was a lot to celebrate, and also a lot to be grateful for.
Now all that is left is to hope for another year of powder, delicious food, good friends, and more fun in Japan.
